Friday, July 31, 2009

From Tracy Goldman

OK, so the spiders are a little big, the rain is a little loud, but I live in the Himalayas, I have the nicest view ever, the food is amazing, the culture is so different, there are animals everywhere, and I’m working for a cause that is in so much need of supporters to help make a difference for an entire society. Holy cow, we’re in INDIA!! That’s about the seven millionth time I’ve said that and I’ve only been here for about two weeks. And I still can’t believe it! One day I’m doing research to find out the problem of climate change in Tibet and teaching English to a group of women who just recently arrived in India from Tibet, the next day I’m walking up and down the busy streets of the local village buying anything I want for under five dollars, and finally one day I’m sitting in the Dalai Lama Temple listening to his teachings awaiting him to graciously walk right passed me. As I said before, wow, I’m in India! Everyone at home I miss you a lot, but I have to say I could really get used to staying here for a long while. With the 45-minute hike up and down the mountain everyday to go volunteer and the relaxing group meals we have together, weekends off and evening activities, this trip is perfect and is such a wonderful experience. A few days ago I think I had the most culture shock experience yet. My roommate Sandra and I decided to go to Baghsu, another town nearby, just for the afternoon. As soon as we entered the town we were swarmed. I couldn’t believe my eyes but there were about one hundred men ranging in age that were staring at us and making comments to us and most of all: taking pictures of us!! I seriously felt like I was famous at first and my mind was blown away, but then I started to get very irritated. If anyone knows me, you will know that I get very aggressive and loud sometimes. So of course I started flailing my arms around and screaming at them as I was pushing my way through the crowd. It didn’t help one bit. All I could hear through all the noise was “one snap”. This is the most common thing someone will hear while walking down the street; if you look somewhat different, that is. One snap means “let me take as many pictures as possible of you on my phone please”. It’s as if they have never seen someone with light skin before in real life. So to them, since they’ve only seen Westerners on TV, we were actually famous! Once Sandra and I finally got to our destination, we hid out for a while hoping we would quickly be forgotten. This was not the case, as there was a lineup of guys outside the store taking “snaps” of us while we were shopping. So eventually we decided to leave and walk back, but this time we were a little smarter about it. We tried covering ourselves as much as possible. I didn’t have much to work with, but Sandra had her scarf wrapped around her whole head except for her eyes, and had her sunglasses on. It didn’t help at all. I was just so totally shocked and mind boggled at this experience and behaviour from the locals of a place where I will be living for a month. I guess that’s just one of the circumstances of being in India!
-Tracy Goldman

Thursday, July 30, 2009

From Sandra Vadasz

1st Day out in the Field! (July 22, 2009)
Family, friends, and blog followers, Let me begin by telling you a little story. It happened yesterday...

After a long morning at the health clinic, Shauna (a Canadian student in our group) and I were making our way up the road for lunch. For those of you who don't know me, I am an animal lover. I like all animals and I would not like harming any insect. Hence I along with Yoav (an Israeli from the group who shares my love for bugs) are the official "spider savers." A spider savers job description includes retrieving spiders, or any creepy crawler for that matter, from rooms upon request (or more realistically upon shriek!). After the spider is collected we place it outside in its natural habitat.
That being said, even before leaving Toronto I was extremely excited to see on animal in particular... the MONKEYS!!
Continuing our trek to lunch Shauna and I discuss our mornings. All of a sudden I hear some rustling coming from the trees to my left. I look up and what do I see??!! A family of monkeys! Am other and her two adorably cute babies, the father monkey was sitting out on the ground at the base of the tree.
My eyes lit up as my body filled with excitement. My knapsack quickly fell of my back and like the good little tourist within seconds I have my camera in my hand.
As if I don't look touristy enough with my white skin, blond hair and blue eyes, there I was standing on the road side talking to monkeys in my most annoying cutesy baby talk voice, snapping away, looking for the perfect shot.
Since the father monkey was on the floor he was the closest to me. I knelt down to his level. There is was my perfect monkey photo. In my mind I was imagining how impressed my friends would be. The praises were echoing in my ear: "You were so close to those adorable monkeys" Thinking about their "Ooos" and "awws" allowed my mind to drift temporarily.
M finger was about to press down on the shutter when... a loud growl, swinging monkey arms and a very angry monkey face was chasing me up the hill.
My heart immediately sped up to a million miles a minute. Shauna, further ahead of me was also running for her life. "I'm about to get bit by a monkey, it's going to hurt... really really badly. I hope my mom won't be worried... what WILL my grandparents, who might I add were not exactly gung ho about their precious little grandchild travelling to India, say? (Definitely multiply oy oy oy's and perhaps some Hungarian swear words at the very least). My mind was racing with all those thoughts. I was convinced that the one thought to be my smooshy, wooshy, friendly weindly banana eating brother was about to take a chunk out of my arm. It was inevitable. I stop running and started walking slowly, really to take the hit.
5 seconds, 10 seconds, no monkey!
Laughter. Laughter?? Laughter! The locals were obviously watching me as I ran for my life from a monkey. I guess it serves the annoying tourist right... I mean if someone were doing that to me I would want to bit their face off too. Shauna and I burst into hysterical laughter. I walked the rest of the way to lunch with my head down and beads of sweat rolling off my face.
Now today, today is another story. It's one thing for the monkeys to mess with me, but another for them to mess with my favourite 78 year old patient, Momo Tashi Chonzon.
Doing our daily rounds, nurse Tanzin and I climbed the steep wet steps towards Momo Chonzon's humble abode (Momo means grandmother, we call our elders either Momo or Popo out of respect). Panting, hunched over with my hands on my knees I thought to myself. "How on earth can a 78 year old do this??" Unwillingly I continued to walk until we reached an iron fence, it was open, we proceeded. We were met by an angry Tibetan dog with a pink fluffy dirty collar. Usually Momo comes out to save us from the wrath of the deranged, odd looking creature. There was no Momo in sight, so we press on with her rickety metal ladder like steps.
The door was open and Momo was sitting on her bed. When our eyes met I was staring back at the saddest puppy dog eyes I have ever seen. I rushed to her side and looked questioning at her trying to figure out what was upsetting her. Since I don't speak Tibetan Tanzine, the nurse, started with the basic questions. After we found out that her entire body hurt (in much more detail then this but I'll spare you) she fell silent.
My father always taught me that when everything is wrong with someone, usually they are quite healthy. I convinced Tanzine to stay longer even though we still had five more patients to see.
Finally, after forcing me to eat cookies she got at the temple and a large glass of butter tea (you read correctly, it's basically water boiled with salty butter and milk, which by the way I do not like at ALL but have to drink with a smile on my face since it is rude to refuse food from an elder).
Momo broke down. As tiny tear drops fell from her tiny eyes, down her tiny face my heart broke. Momo began to sign to me waving her arms in the air furiously. She got up and started running around her house. I turned to Tanzine begging her to translate quickly. "Monkeys" she said. "They came in through the window, five of them."
It turns out that right when Momo returned from grocery shopping at the market, five monkeys stole her newly purchased rice and tomatoes.
She returned from her kitchen cupping the one tomato and tipped bag of rice that she was able to snatch back from the monkeys. This means that she will have to wait until next week in order to buy more vegetables. Vegetable are expensive and not everyone can afford to buy them.
Now I really have a bone, or better yet a banana to pick with these monkey creatures! I advised Momo to keep her windows and door shut during the day and open them during the night. I gave her a hug and put my hands in front of my heart and said "Tashi Delek" and left for my decent down the mountain to visit more patients (Tashi Delek means hello, goodbye and peace, exactly like Shalom)
After we finished our rounds I found out that many of our patients were not eating enough fruits and vegetable due to lack of monetary funds.
The fact that I had pent up anger towards monkeys and the fact that I am a fruit and vegetable freak made me spring into action. Tanzine took me to check out the prices of these nutrient filled, vitamin packed delicacies. Half a pound of tomatoes were 60 cents. I went on a fruit and vegetable buying rampage.... don't worry dad it ended up being a whooping five dollars... necessities are necessities just like the scarves, skirts, wall hangings, sandals and dresses I bought.. money is no object when it comes to necessities... right dad? Dad? Hello? Oh no.
Moving on, I started to distribute tomatoes, cucumber, mango and papaya to my patients who looked like a vitamin boost was essential. They were elated! I felt like a little fairy prancing around town shaking my fairy dust on whom ever needed help.
Feeling inspired and full of joy, my ambitious brain forced my lazy legs to climb back up the mountain. Tomatoes and papaya in hand, Tanzine and I finally reached Momo Chonzon's front door (thankfully the yappy monster of a dog was out with its owner).
I handed Momo the goods, she was so thankful I can't begin to describe it in words. She had the chance to offer my butter tea, I made sure Tanzine informed her that we were in a hurry.
Although Momo did manage to feed me a biscuit I left feeling rewarded and now had a permanent invitation to my favourite Momo's place. I was able to bring my friends, fruit and vegetables and in return it brought happiness.
I can't thank my patients enough for letting me into their homes and being unexceptionally kind towards me. Spending time with Momo I have learned that she is one tough woman... so monkeys, WATCH OUT!

From Rebecca Woods Baum

For a long time I've wanted to come to India and I'm so thankful to be given the chance to see India as the madricha of ten amazing students from Canada and Israel.
Before coming here many people offered advice, warnings and interesting tidbits of information. I thought I knew for the most part what to expect. In many instances those friends and colleagues were right, but even then I was unprepared for the noise, glaring poverty on display, the dirt, the beauty, the kindness and the rich culture and history all around me.
Before leaving a close friend turned to me one day and said "You're going to come back from India changed." She was right. How could I go unaffected by this experience? But I've been affected in a way I didn't quite predict.
Coming to India, knowing that we're volunteering with the exiled Tibetan community I believed I had so much to give them as a "forward thinking" product of the West and also as a diaspora Jew who's community and ancestors have a history of being exiled from their homes- it is ingrained in my Jewish psyche and is commemorated during the Holidays. As is the joy of knowing I do have a Jewish homeland that has the potential to carry on the Jewish people both within and outside Israel. Coming from this background, I relate to the Tibetans, I feel for their plight, I support their cause. Where I was wrong was when I thought the relationship would be one sided; insight and help coming only from me.
The Tibetan culture and history is a rich one, and this I've seen in only a week and a half. A culture and language the people are striving to preserve and protect, and they do so proudly. It is from an outsiders perspective at least, a true "shcuna" of people who care for each other and look out for each other. I think of my own community worldwide and within Israel and I fear that in many cases it is not the same for us Jews. You hear alarming statistics of assimilation in America and while in Canada we are not at that point yet, experts report that we are following the American example. People only identify as Jewish by birth, their is not pride in the culture, in the people, in the language, in the Land. Within Israel I speak to Israelis who turn their back or shun ALL things connected to Judaism and it saddens and scares me. Perhaps we are a people who have become too complacent, our memories of our past fading from importance. From this I believe we have a lot to learn from the Tibetans as an example of celebrating and encouraging one's culture to grow. It is important for us Jews to celebrate our culture too and be proud of it because like the Tibetans we have a rich history and culture. Both peoples have made a positive impact on the world at large.
We can also learn balance from the Tibetans. Balance in our lives, in how we treat others. In the end I know I will take away a lot from the Tibetan people I've met and talked with and I only hope I can give back.
We had a Tibetan activist Tenzin Tsundue come visit us, he is considered a terrorist by the Chinese government, yet he practices the Dalai Lama's middleway non-violent approach and one important thing (among many) he said has really stuck with me when thinking about advocacy, education and activism in my own life. I will paraphrase. It is not only about the goal, but the journey you take to that goal. If the journey is filled with violence and hate what will happen when you finally do reach that goal, will your behaviour really change?

Tashi Delek

Wednesday, July 29, 2009

From Yoav Fekete

Mcleod Ganj India, the seat of the Dalai Lama and the exiled government of Tibet. In many ways this quiet and remote Himalayan town encapsulates in it the full complexity of the Tibetan story. Nested at a height of 2000 mt on the Dhauladhar range (White Mountain rage) of the Himalayan chain, coloured with an ever green cover of forest, Enveloped in fog which finds it way to every house and corner, its a magical scene.

The local Indians and the Tibetan refugees coexist in a fragile symbiosis. The Indian population is very diverse made of the local Himachali people (the state were Mclead resides in), the Rajastani jewelers and cloth makers , the Kashmiri traders, Punjabi tourists that fill the town every weekend and many more. On the Tibetan side you have the veteran refugees already born in India and the newly arrived Tibetans that fled only recently from Tibet. Last and not least are the Western tourists from all over the world. All with different clothes and styles to make up a vibrant and lively town. Tourism is the life blood for the many restaurants, guest houses, handicrafts shops and internet cafes. The grocery shops rely mostly on the local population.

The Indian government being the only one in the world that accepts all refuges, has supplied a safe haven for the Tibetan people fleeing from the Chinese endless attempts to strip them of their religion, culture and identity. Although the Indian Tibetan coexistence seems ideal from the outside the more you go in, the more the cracks you find. The Indian government has given the Tibetan refuges a registration certificate which every year has to be renewed at the foreign registration office. Land is not allowed to be owned by the refugees, although some of them have lived in this area for more the 50 years. Also moving inside India is a problem, any trip longer then 14 days is possible only with a special police permit, so visiting your aunt's family in a different refugee camp in the south of India would involve a long bureaucratic process.

Many people who I have spoken with pointed out the language and culture differences as the main cause of problems. One story is about a young Tibetan refugee in the mid 1990's who fled only then from Tibet, when arriving to India he rented some room with an Indian family. He could only speak Tibetan and the family could only speak Hindi. One day, some dispute arose between him and the son of the family, the cause lost in the stream of time, from here to there a fight broke up and the Tibetan stabbed the Indian. The next 3 days Mcleod Ganj was on fire. Many of the Tibetan shops, restaurants and offices were pillaged, and burned. Most of the local Indian population did not participate in the riots, as they realized the great contribution of the Tibetan community. And as the riots ceased they asked the Tibetans to stay in the area and not leave (During the rampage the Dalai lama said that if we are unwanted here then we shall leave). Although this is rare story, under the surface there is always the tension of this reoccurring, Every dispute between an Indian and a Tibetan has the potential of ruining this delicate coexistence.

But don't let this story change your view on the Indian's generosity and the amazing town of Mcleod Ganj. The Tibetan community got a chance to preserve her culture here in India, a chance to share their story with the world and a chance to leave a decent life safe from torture, executions, starvation and fear.

Friday, July 24, 2009

From Shauna Lichtblau

Free Writing Exercise in Response to following quote:
"Accept a teacher upon yourself; acquire a friend of yourself, and judge everyone favourably."
Pirkei Avos, Ch 1 (6)

Originally, I thought that coming to India was not only an opportunity to see the world, but was our responsibility to give back to the community at large. Little did I realize that this trip would be so much more, in that India has given me so much in return. I have been impacted by so many amazing people and have learned to view the world from a much different perspective. Even though the culture is different from our own, I believe that our underlying values are very similar and consequently they allow us to relate to each other on so many levels. I have come to understand how important it is to create bridges between different cultures in order to better understand and be able to relate to one another.

From Tamar Tepper

Free Writing Exercise in Response to following quote:
"Accept a teacher upon yourself; acquire a friend of yourself, and judge everyone favourably."
Pirkei Avos, Ch 1 (6)

My teaching experience in India has been one of the most profound and memorable experiences i have had since my arrival. My students arrived from Tibet within the last few years, and each is not participating in the Tibetan Women's Association's program called "Stitches for Tibet" which teaches them how to sew traditional Tibetan clothing, provides health care and English lessons and gives each woman a small weekly stipend. As a teacher, the program has taught me not to judge my students and their conditions, but to embrace and befriend each. This program is especially important as it teaches these women how to sustain themselves financially in their new home in India, as well as provide a great opportunity for women with similar backgrounds, experiences, beliefs and hardships to meet and form strong bonds and acts as a support system for one another.

From Maayan Ravid

Volunteering to write the second blog at the conclusion of our first week in India, I thought I would know what to report home. I thought I would have some new insights and clear understandings, but instead only more questions are added to the curiosity that lead me here, and more questions continue to arise every day. I will share a few of these questions here and tell a bit of our experience thus far.

I would like to open with a quote from the book I am reading here: "India- A Travel Journal." The book was written by Ezriel Carlebach, a descendant of German Rabbis and one of the main figures of early Israeli Journalism. He opens the book with a quote from his discussion with the late Indian leader Nehru. Carlebach asks him: "Well then, what should we do?" and the latter responds: "That is a typical Western question, an Indian would ask: What should we be?"

Part 1: Indian Delhi

Our first Shabbat was spent in Delhi where two things became very clear, very fast. The first- We are in one of the biggest countries in the world, both in size and population. So many people, so many cars, so many colors, so many smells, so many rickshaws, so many storefronts, so many beggars, so many gods. So much noise, makes us seem very small. The second understanding- This is a different world, what some may call the 3rd world, and our Western Standards are challenged everywhere: manners and etiquette, personal space and hygiene, garbage and pollution, standard of living- under a tin roof or by the roadside; standard of driving- even worse than in Israel; or other social standards- like the overwhelming statistic of 23 million children between the ages of 5-14 employed in the Indian workforce.

It makes you wonder: How does this harsh reality still exist in what we perceive as the "modern" "enlightened" world of the 21st century? How do forces like capitalism and globalization affect those on the "other" end of the production line? What does "Made in India" actually, really mean?

Part 2: Tibetan Dharmsalah and joining the cause

In Dharamsalah we are staying at the Tibetan Children's Village, about 8 km above the town of McLeod Ganj. It houses hundreds of Tibetan children who escaped from Tibet in hopes of education, a better future, and freedom from oppression. These young refugees, far from their parents and homes, are raised together as a family and community. The long drive up here is not just a mere change in scenery- from the Indian Delhi city skyline, to the tropical jungles and monsoons of the Tibetan lower Himalayas. This transition means entering a completely different community, social discourse, and purpose of our presence.

This region is the "home away from home" of the Tibetan refugee community. Since being forced into exile by the Chinese overtaking of Tibet in 1959, they were granted permission by India to set up their exiled community here and in other settlements. This is where their religious and political leader H.H. the Dalai Lama lives and preaches; this is where their government in exile sits and attempts to provide some normalcy to its followers. There are approximately 130,000 Tibetans living in exile. They are not recognized by the UN as refugees. They do not have passports and must renew their interim residency annually with Indian Immigration registration. They have been doing so for the past 50 years. They are a stateless people.

In the midst of the ongoing struggle and growing frustration, there are beautiful expressions of human perseverance. Their continued adherence to peaceful and non-violent struggle, lead by the preaching of their religious leader, is inspiring. The sprouting individual initiatives and commitments to a shared cause of leading a free and independent existence in their own historic land, touching. Both make me examine our more cynical, aggressive reality back in our homes.

Part 3: Some thoughts to wrap up with

Being Jewish and Israeli, I can't help but relate this experience to our own history, as a people who were, for so long, stateless. I can't help but think of the generations of Jews who yearned to return to their homeland, who suffered persecution and limitations of their basic rights. The countless Jews who struggled to establish a country that I can today call home, where I am lucky enough- to live and believe- freely.
Ultimately, I don't think it should be a matter of luck or chance. Adopting and Indian approach I would like to ask not "what we should do?" but rather "What should we be?"

I still believe we should be a light among the nations, in the fields of human rights and the fight against injustice. We should be a people and a country that remember our past, draw the right conclusions and act! Act not only for ourselves, but for others in plight, living beside us, among us, or worlds apart.

Wishing us all a Shabbat of Peace and sending positive energies from Dharamsalah, India

Shalom, Maayan